For a replica Explorer II 16570, the build worth buying is the one that gets the bracelet right first: a 40 mm case with 20 mm lugs, a three-link Oyster-style bracelet with solid mid-links, end links seated flush against the case, and a GMT movement that sets the way the reference does, with an hour hand that jumps on its own. Bracelet fit and end-link seating are the details people notice within five seconds on the wrist, and they are the details budget builds skip. The sections below take each criterion in order and spell out the trade-offs.
What reference 16570 actually is
Rolex made the 16570 from 1989 to 2011: 40 mm Oyster case, fixed 24-hour steel bezel, sapphire crystal, 100 m water resistance, black or white Polar dial, and a 20 mm lug width. Early watches run caliber 3185, later ones caliber 3186. The bracelet is a three-link Oyster with an Oysterlock clasp and a folding extension link. One naming point matters here. Rolex only started marketing its 904L-family alloy as Oystersteel in the late 2010s, years after this reference left production. On a 16570, "Oystersteel band" describes the bracelet style and the brushed-and-polished finish, not a certified alloy. Judge the metal with your eyes and a loupe, not the label.
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Criterion 1: bracelet construction and finish
This bracelet carries more visual weight than anything else on the watch. A 16570 reads as a bracelet with a watch head attached, so loose linkwork has nowhere to hide.
Pros
- Solid mid-links hold the bracelet's curve over the wrist and cut the rattle hollow links produce.
- Brushed outer links with polished center links match how the reference catches light, which is why good photos of this watch read correctly.
- Screw-in link pins let you size the bracelet at home with a small driver instead of hammering friction pins.
Cons
- Solid links add weight, and a heavy bracelet on a light case makes the head feel unbalanced.
- Polished center links pick up scratches fast, and a repolish flattens the crisp line between brushed and polished surfaces.
- Cheaper builds use pin-and-collar links that loosen with wear and cannot be tightened at home.
Best for: daily wear, where the bracelet is in motion and in view. This is the criterion to spend on.
Criterion 2: end links and case fit
End links are where a replica shows its hand. They should sit tight to the case at both lugs, with even gaps and no daylight showing through from the side.
Pros
- Well-fitted end links keep the bracelet from rotating on the case and prevent the lugs from digging into the wrist.
- A correct 20 mm width means the end links sit under the lug tips the way the reference does.
Cons
- Tight end links make the bracelet hard to remove for cleaning.
- Over-polished end links round off the corners and lose the sharp edge that sits against the case.
Best for: anyone who wears the watch with short sleeves, where the case-to-bracelet junction is visible.
Criterion 3: case, bezel and crown guards
The 16570 case has a soft, rounded profile with lugs that curve down, not slab-sided lugs that look cut from a block. The fixed 24-hour bezel should be engraved, not printed, with numerals that stay legible at an angle.
Pros
- A correctly profiled case wears smaller than its 40 mm number suggests, which suits a range of wrist sizes.
- Engraved bezel numerals hold their dark fill and do not wipe away with cleaning.
Cons
- Over-polished cases lose the factory bevel along the lugs, and that bevel is hard to restore.
- Bezel friction on cheaper builds can feel gritty when the bezel is turned for cleaning.
Best for: buyers who want the classic proportions rather than a larger modern substitute.
Criterion 4: movement and GMT behavior
Test the function, not the description. Set the watch, then pull the crown and step the hour hand forward across midnight several times. The 24-hour hand should keep correct time against the dial, and the date should flip once per full cycle. A date that jumps early, late, or twice points to a movement problem.
Pros
- A movement with an independently set hour hand lets you change time zones without stopping the watch, which is the point of the reference.
- A smooth sweep with a steady beat rate is easy to verify against a phone camera in slow motion.
Cons
- GMT clones cost more, and the price gap is where most of the quality difference lives.
- Servicing options are limited, so a failed movement often means a replacement rather than a repair.
Best for: travelers who will actually use the 24-hour hand, and anyone who resents a fake function.
Criterion 5: dial, crystal and date window
Check date alignment inside the window, the position of the lume plots against the hour markers, and the cyclops magnification. The magnifier should enlarge the date clearly without turning it into a bubble that distorts at the edges.
Pros
- A well-printed dial holds crisp text under magnification and keeps the Polar white free of gray tint.
- Anti-reflective coating on the cyclops reduces the washed-out look that gives away cheap crystals.
Cons
- Coated crystals show smudges and fine scratches more readily in daily use.
- Dial printing varies between production runs, so two examples of the same build can differ.
Best for: buyers who photograph their watches or work close to other people all day.
Red flags that should end the conversation
- End links that shift sideways under finger pressure.
- A date that changes before midnight or skips.
- Bezel numerals that are printed and wipe off with a cloth.
- A seller who will not show the movement, the clasp code area, or a clear photo of the end-link fit.
- Any claim that a replica is authorized, serviceable by Rolex, or a good investment.
Before you buy
A replica is not an authorized Rolex product. It cannot be serviced or authenticated by Rolex, it holds little to no resale value, and it can be seized in transit or at customs depending on where you live. Treat the purchase as a costume piece with a finite lifespan and budget accordingly. If resale, warranty, or service access matter to you, the same money spent on a mainstream steel GMT from an authorized brand will hold up far better over time. If you simply want the 16570 look on the wrist, spend on the bracelet and the movement, and accept the rest as cosmetic.