The short answer

Most replicas of IWC reference IW328087 fall down in the same two places: the case runs a little too thick, and the movement behind it is a generic one with a spacer holding it in place. If a listing publishes neither the case thickness nor a real photo of the movement, treat it as a gamble. Everything else, dial printing, engraving, strap stitching, matters less until those two things check out.

Pull the genuine spec sheet first

Before I look at a single seller photo, I open the manufacturer page for the reference and write down the numbers: case diameter, case thickness, lug width, crystal type, water resistance rating, and the movement name. Those six figures are the ruler for everything that follows. A seller who will not state the case thickness is usually hiding the fact that it is off, because thickness is the hardest dimension for a replica case to match and the easiest one to leave out of a description.

The inspection checklist

When the watch is in your hand, or when you are judging photos from a seller, work through these in order:

• Case diameter and thickness. Measure with calipers if you can. Photos flatter a watch. A replica that runs even 0.6 mm thick looks fine on its own and wrong next to the real thing.
• Lug width and spring bar fit. Interchangeable straps are part of the appeal here. If the lugs chew a strap or leave a visible gap, the case was cut to a different drawing.
• Crown feel. It should thread smoothly, seat flush against the case, and stop without grit. Rough threading is one of the first things to fail.
• Dial printing. Under a loupe, check the logo, the text line weight, and the spacing of the minute track. Blobby edges and uneven gaps are the classic tells.
• Date wheel. If the reference has a date, the window should sit centered and the numerals should match the dial font. A date font that is slightly bolder or thinner shows up right away.
• Anti-reflective coating. Real watches in this class usually carry strong coating on the inside of the crystal. Cheap replicas skip it, so the dial washes out under a lamp and looks flat on the wrist.
• Lume. Charge it under a bright lamp for thirty seconds, then step into a dark room. Decent lume glows evenly and fades slowly. Poor lume is bright for two minutes and gone.

The movement is the honest part

Ask for a photo of the actual movement, not a stock image from a catalog. The usual suspects in this bracket are Miyota, Seiko NH series, and various ETA 2824 clones. None of those is inherently bad. Condition is what matters. If the seller can put the watch on a timegrapher, ask for the numbers. I would want to see it inside roughly twenty seconds a day either way, with healthy amplitude and a clean beat. Readings far outside that mean a service bill on a watch that few people will agree to service.

Caseback engraving tells you the price tier

Deep, crisp engraving costs money. Shallow marks you can barely feel with a fingernail do not. Check that the reference number, the case material text, and any serial style markings are spelled and spaced correctly. Typos still ship on a surprising number of replicas, and factories fix them only when enough buyers complain.

Strap, bracelet, and end links

On a bracelet version, hold the watch by the case and let the bracelet hang. Rattle, sharp clasp edges, and end links that sit proud of the lugs are all common. On a leather strap, look at stitching density and whether the strap tapers the way the original does. These are parts you touch all day, so flaws here bother you more than a dial detail nobody else can see.

What you give up

No manufacturer service, no parts support, and no resale value. Independent watchmakers often decline replica work because there is nothing to order when something breaks. Water resistance claims should be treated as marketing copy. Shipping carries risk too, since customs agencies can seize counterfeit goods, and importing them is illegal in the United States. Know that before you spend.

Verdict

A good replica of this reference is a decent-looking watch that reads correctly at arm's length and falls apart under a loupe or in the hand. Buy it for the design at a fraction of the cost, with open eyes. Do not buy it expecting the real thing, and do not buy it without seeing the case measured and the movement photographed.