A fake Speedmaster 1957 "4th generation" is a replica of an Omega Speedmaster 1957 style watch, most often a copy of the Broad Arrow re-edition or the 1957 Trilogy releases, that a seller lists as the fourth revision of their own product. The phrase "4th generation" is a seller and factory term, not an Omega term. Omega has never called any reference a fourth generation Speedmaster 1957, so the label describes the copy, not the original.
That distinction matters. If you are trying to identify a watch, the version number only tells you which batch a replica came from. To judge the watch in your hand, you still have to compare dial print, case geometry, bezel details, movement, and caseback against the genuine references.
Where the "4th generation" label comes from
Replica makers revise their products over time and sellers market each revision as a new generation: first version, second, third, fourth, and so on. Each step usually claims a corrected dial font, a better bezel, or a closer case profile. There is no published standard, no registry, and no verification body behind these numbers. Two sellers can both advertise a "4th generation" while shipping different watches.
Treat the number as marketing, and treat every claim about it as something to check against the real reference.
The genuine watches a 1957 replica copies
There are two main originals behind most 1957 style replicas:
- Reference 3594.50.00, the Broad Arrow re-edition from the late 1990s, a 42 mm steel Speedmaster with broad arrow hands and a bezel in the style of the 1957 original.
- The 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster, released by Omega in 2017 as a limited series alongside a Railmaster and a Seamaster 300, with a smaller case and straight lugs that echo the first Speedmaster from 1957.
Those two are not the same watch, and a replica advertised as a 1957 model often blends features from both. That mixing is one of the easiest ways to spot a copy.
What usually changes between replica versions
Dial and hands
Early replicas often use a generic Speedmaster dial with thick, soft print. Later ones try to match the applied logo, the stepped dial surface, and the thinner stroke weight of the genuine printing. On broad arrow copies, look at the length and shape of the arrow hands, the sweep of the seconds hand, and whether the lume plots sit inside crisp metal frames or bleed past them.
Bezel
The 1957 bezel uses a base 500 scale with a dot above 90, a detail collectors watch closely. Copies frequently print the dot in the wrong place, use a matte finish where the original is glossy, or set the insert slightly off center. Rotate the bezel and check that the markings line up with the dial at 12.
Case and lugs
Genuine 1957 style cases have defined lug facets and a bevel that catches light along its length. Replicas tend to round those edges, thicken the lugs, or sit taller than the original. Measure the case if you can. A 42 mm copy that measures closer to 43 mm with the crown guards is a warning sign.
Movement and pushers
Copies may use a decorated automatic movement behind a solid caseback, or a hand wound clone. Feel the pushers: genuine chronograph pushers on these references have a short, firm travel with a clear reset. Loose or gritty pushers, a crown that threads with resistance, or a rotor that spins loudly are all common on replicas.
Caseback and engraving
The seahorse medallion, reference numbers, and serial stamps are usually the weakest part of a copy. Genuine engraving is crisp with sharp interior corners. Laser etched replicas look shallow and slightly soft at the edges.
Quick checklist before you decide
- Confirm which original the watch is meant to copy: 3594.50.00 or a 1957 Trilogy reference.
- Compare dial print weight, logo type, and hand shapes against clear photos of the genuine piece.
- Check the bezel for the correct dot over 90 layout and alignment.
- Inspect lug facets, case height, and crown guard shape.
- Read the caseback engraving under magnification.
- Work out movement type and compare pusher feel.
- Weigh the bracelet and check end link fit against the case.
Verifying a watch as genuine
If your goal is to confirm that a Speedmaster is authentic, a version number from a seller means nothing. Take the watch to an Omega authorized service center or a qualified watchmaker and ask for an inspection of the movement, case, and caseback stamps. Omega can also confirm a reference against its own records when a watch is submitted for service. Documents, original box, and a service history help, but they are not proof on their own, since paperwork can be copied as easily as a dial.
For buyers comparing replicas, the practical approach is to ignore the generation label and grade the watch on the physical details above. That is what determines how close a copy sits to a real Speedmaster 1957, regardless of what number the listing uses.